• Try one of our peer reviewed recipes and ingredient kits! Each of these recipes are designed and hand crafted by the staff at KJ. 

    All kits include the required ingredients and instructions. 

  • Starter kits are a great way to get started brewing. Our different kits have everything you need to get that first batch cooking. 

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    Eli's Golden Ale

    Golden Ale – 5.5 Gal - OG 1.063 – FG 1.011 – ABV 6.6% - IBU 21 – SRM 9

    Craving a refreshing beer with a twist? Our Golden Ale, crafted by Eli, might be just what you're looking for. This unique Belgian-style ale offers familiar golden ale characteristics with a burst of citrusy flavor and a zippy finish. Inspired by Eli's exploration of diverse brewing styles, it blends North American and European influences for a truly captivating taste.

    Highly drinkable and bursting with flavor, this beer is perfect for any season. For an extra pop of carbonation and a touch more zest, we recommend adding more sugar during priming, aiming for a CO2 range of 3.3 to 4.5 volumes (typically 2.5 volumes).

    Ingredients and Instructions are listed below

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    • Rahr Pilsner x 7lbs
    • Wheat Malt x 2.5lbs
    • Rahr Pale Ale x 2lbs
    • Crystal 20 x 0.75lbs
    • Belgian Candi Syrup - Simplicity
    Boil Schedule (minutes)
    • Perle 1/2 ounce @ 90 minutes
    • Perle 1/2 ounce @ 20 minutes
    • Sweet orange peel 1/2 ounce @ 10 minutes
    • Citra 1 ounce @ 0 minutes
    • BE-134 Saison Yeast
    Extras (Must be purchased separately)
    • Coriander
    • Sweet Orange Peel
    • Irish Moss - 1 tsp for last 15 minutes of boil
    • DME/Dextrose - 150g at bottling for priming


    Important Tips on Brewing

    • Be extra cautious when it comes to cleaning! Once you have stopped boiling your wort everything that gets in contact with the beer MUST be sanitary.
    • The temperature of your mash is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. Not being in the 150-155f range can drastically affect your beer. Make sure you correct the temperature ASAP once all the grain has been added to the mash.
    • Always let your beer ferment for 10 days! Do not disturb it, do not open the lid. It is absolutely natural for the airlock to stop bubbling after a few days, it is still fermenting though.
    • Oxidization: Airspace is always something to consider. When undergoing primary fermentation airspace is needed so that the beer can bubble up and ferment vigoursley without leaking out of the container. The fermentation creates a layer of CO2 that remains in the pail due to the airlock. Once primary fermentation is over, and the lid has been opened, the layer of CO2 dissipates, and oxygen replaces it. At this point airspace can ruin your beer. When racking into carboys make sure they are filled to the top, or you blast CO2 inside to prevent oxidization. Ask us for details on this!
    • Before bottling, make sure you use a priming calculator (many can be found online) to verify the amount of sugar that needs to be added.

    Mashing -> Converting the Grain into a Fermentable Liquid

    • Bring 6 gallons of water in your brew pot to 155°F. This is our strike temperature. Turn off the heat to the pot.
    • Wrap the muslin/nylon bag around the brew pot and slowly pour all the milled grains & the coriander into the bag. Stir them in while adding to prevent clumps. The addition of grain should drop the temperature down to 150-155°F.
    • We want to mash the grain at 153°F for 60 minutes. It is very important to hold the temperature at 153°F. If the temperature rises above 155°F it hurts the fermentation, or if it dips below 149°F it can lead to a thinner tasting beer.
    • The first 15-30 minutes are essential for the success of your brew. The temperature HAS TO BE IN THE RANGE OF 150-155°F. Sometimes adding the grain to the strike water does not lower the temperature enough, in this case add a little bit of cold water to bring the temperature down. Cover the pot with your lid and let it sit.
    • Most brew pots will be able to maintain 153°F without adding heat for 20 minutes, we recommend checking the temperature every 15 minutes, and if it drops add more heat to bring it up. We recommend opening the lid and using a thermometer in the liquid.
    • After 60 minutes, bring the temperature of the mashing grain up to 170°F and hold for 10 minutes. This is our mash out.
    • Time to remove the grain. Lift the bag full of grain out of the brew pot. Let the liquid in the bag dribble into your wort. Once that is done, put the bag inside of a brewing pail, or another empty pot. There will be about 4 gallons of wort in the brew pot, we need to get it to 6 gallons before we can begin the next stage.
    • Run warm water through the grains in the bag, aim for 170°f – let it run through the grains and add to the brew pot. Add until you reach 6 gallons. PSA: It is natural to think that the grains need to be squeezed to get all the liquid out of them, DO NOT DO THIS. Aggressively squeezing the grains will lead to tannin extraction and a doughy taste in your beer. Lightly pressing the bag is fine, but do not try to squeeze every last drop out.

    Boiling -> Sterilizing the Wort Time

    • Bring 6 gallons of your wort to a rolling boil, and let it boil for 5 minutes, this is called the hot break.
    • Set a timer for 90 minutes, add ½ oz of Perle hops, and keep the wort boiling (212°f) and uncovered.
    • With 20 minutes left in the timer add the remaining ½ oz of Perle hops to the boil and continue to boil.
    • With 15 minutes left add the package of Simplicity Candi Sugar and 1tsp of Irish Moss, and if you are using a wort chiller you can add that now
    • With 10 minutes left in the boil, add ½ oz of sweet orange peel to the boil.
    • When your timer goes off, add 1 ounce of Citra then immediately turn off the heat, and proceed to the cooling stage.
    • Now it’s time to cool the beer down to 75°f (20-25°c) as quickly as possible.
    • We love using a wort chiller for this, it can get the beer down to temperature in 20-30 minutes. Otherwise, you can immerse the brew pot in an ice bath or wait it out. The longer it takes, the greater the risk of infection

    Fermentation -> Turning the Wort into Beer

    • Rack the now fermented beer into a bucket.
    • At the same time, mix the priming sugar with 300ml of boiling water and add to the beer. Stir it in VERY gently.
    • Make sure to check out a priming calculator to verify the correct amount of sugar. Too much sugar and your beer will end up foamy, or even start blowing the caps off! Too little and the beer won’t be fully carbonated.
    • This beer will benefit from having a higher amount of priming sugar added. We recommend aiming for a CO2 volume of 3.3-4.5, for a typical 20L batch this would equal around 214 - 320 grams of dextrose. Just be sure to change the numbers if you have more or less than 20L as over priming can lead to super foamy beers or bottle bombs.
    • Rack the beer into your bottles or growlers. Then, let them sit for 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Chill and enjoy!

    Bottling -> We’re getting close to Beer Time now

    • Rack the now fermented beer into a bucket.
    • At the same time, mix the priming sugar with 300ml of boiling water and add to the beer. Stir it in VERY gently.
    • Rack the beer into your bottles or growlers. Then, let them sit for 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Chill and enjoy!
    • If you are kegging, rack the beer into the keg and put CO2 on it right away. 2 days at 30 PSI, followed by a 10 PSI taste test. If it is not carbonated enough yet, another day at 20 PSI before returning to 10. There are faster methods of carbonating a keg including using a Quick Carb, or by shaking the keg while attached to CO2 (ask us for details on that method)