Dank Dubs

Grains

• 2 Row x 13lbs
• Flaked Oats x 1.6lbs
• Oat Malt x 3.5lbs
• Carafoam x 1lb
• Acidulated x 0.2lbs

Hops

Boil Schedule (minutes)

• Idaho 7 - 4.0 oz @ 0 minutes
• Idaho 7 - 4.0 oz @ Whirlpool 180F Hold for 10 minutes
• Amarillo - 2.0 oz @ Dry Hop @ 1-2 days before bottling/kegging
• Galaxy - 3.0oz @ Dry Hop @ 1-2 days before bottling/kegging

Yeast

• Arset Kveik - Escarpment Labs

Extras (Must be purchased separately)

• Calcium Chloride - 3/4 tsp adding at mashing
• DME/Dextrose - 150g at bottling for priming

• Be extra cautious when it comes to cleaning! Once you have stopped boiling your wort everything that gets in contact with the beer MUST be sanitary.
• The temperature of your mash is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. Not being in the 150-155f range can drastically affect your beer. Make sure you correct the temperature ASAP once all the grain has been added to the mash.
• Always let your beer ferment for 10 days! Do not disturb it, do not open the lid. It is absolutely natural for the airlock to stop bubbling after a few days, it is still fermenting though.
• Oxidization: Airspace is always something to consider. When undergoing primary fermentation airspace is needed so that the beer can bubble up and ferment vigoursley without leaking out of the container. The fermentation creates a layer of CO2 that remains in the pail due to the airlock. Once primary fermentation is over, and the lid has been opened, the layer of CO2 dissipates, and oxygen replaces it. At this point airspace can ruin your beer. When racking into carboys make sure they are filled to the top, or you blast CO2 inside to prevent oxidization. Ask us for details on this!
• Before bottling, make sure you use a priming calculator (many can be found online) to verify the amount of sugar that needs to be added.

• Bring 6-7 gallons of water in your brew pot to 155°F. This is our strike temperature. Turn off the heat to the pot.
• If you are using standard Guelph tap water, add ¾ tsp of Calcium Chloride to the water. This raised the calcium in the water which makes the beer far hazier.
• Wrap the muslin/nylon bag around the brew pot and slowly pour all the milled grains into the bag. Stir them in while adding to prevent clumps. The addition of grain should drop the temperature down to 150-155°F.
• We want to mash the grain at 153 °F for 60 minutes. It is very important to hold the temperature at 153°F. If the temperature rises above 155°F it hurts the fermentation, or if it dips below 149°F it can lead to a thinner tasting beer.
• After 60 minutes, bring the temperature of the mashing grain up to 170°F and hold for 10 minutes. This is our mash out.
• Time to remove the grain. Lift the bag full of grain out of the brew pot. Let the liquid in the bag dribble into your wort. Once that is done, put the bag inside of a brewing pail, or another empty pot. There will be about 4 gallons of wort in the brew pot, we need to get it to 6 gallons before we can begin the next stage.
• Run warm water through the grains in the bag, aim for 170°f – let it run through the grains and add to the brew pot. Add until you reach 6 gallons.

• Bring 6 gallons of your wort to a rolling boil, and let it boil for 5 minutes, this is called the hot break. Start a 60-minute timer. Keep the wort boiling (212°f) and uncovered.
• With 15 minutes left in the timer, add your wort chiller if you have one, and if you do not, don’t do anything.
• With 5 minutes left in the timer, add 1g of Yeast Lightning and keep boiling.
• When your timer goes off, turn off the heat, and add 4 ounces of Idaho 7 hops.
• The next stage is to cool the wort and add some more hops.

• We need to cool the beer a bit before adding more hops. Our target temperature is 180°F. This will not take too long to cool if you’re using a wort chiller. Adding hops at 180°F will maximize the flavour of the hops but add just a little bitterness.
• Once the wort is down to 180°F, add 4 ounces of Idaho 7. Let the beer sit for 10 mins. Do NOT actively cool the beer.
• After 10 minutes are complete. Start cooling the beer down to 25°C, this is our yeast pitching temperature.

• After the boil is done it is time to be extra careful in regard to sanitation. We recommend using a no-rinse sanitizer called Starsan. Mix ¼ tsp of it with water in a 500ml spray bottle. Before we touch any part of the beer, we spray it with Starsan.
• Transfer the cooled wort into your fermenting pail or carboy. Run it though a strainer to catch any hop or grain residue. With all of the hop matter in this beer, it might take a while to strain through all the hops.
• Make sure the wort has been cooled to at least 25c!!! Adding yeast at a higher temperature will likely kill it.
• Once the beer is in the fermenter, shake up and pour in the package of Arset Kveik yeast
• Put the bung and airlock in the hole (make sure there is water filled up to the line in the airlock). If using a pail, make sure the lid is sealed tight. Put the pail in a room that is in the range of 21-27°c. (Arset likes it hot)
• Fermentation should take between 10-14 days. There is lots to ferment here so expect it to go a little longer than most recipes.
• DRY HOP ADDITIONS: We want to dry hop this beer with the Amarillo and Galaxy about 1-2 days before you plan to bottle or keg the beer. This really expresses the hop aroma best.
• After the 1-2 days of dry hopping are complete, it is time to move to the bottling stage.
• Lately, we have been of the opinion that secondary is an unnecessary step. Unless you are kegging, we recommend proceeding to the bottling stage. Clarification can occur in the bottle rather than in a carboy, and the risk of oxidization is greatly reduced.

• Rack the now fermented beer into a bucket.
• At the same time, mix the priming sugar with 300ml of boiling water and add to the beer. Stir it in VERY gently.
• Rack the beer into your bottles or growlers. Then, let them sit for 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Chill and enjoy!
• If you are kegging, rack the beer into the keg and put CO2 on it right away. 2 days at 30 PSI, followed by a 10 PSI taste test. If it is not carbonated enough yet, another day at 20 PSI before returning to 10. There are faster methods of carbonating a keg including using a Quick Carb, or by shaking the keg while attached to CO2 (ask us for details on that method)