Homestretch Pale Ale
Beer of the Month Program
February 2020 - Homestretch Pale Ale - $49.99
One of the best parts about making beer (aside from drinking it) is the social aspect. Brewers love to swap recipes, discuss what well or horribly wrong in their brews. We thought it would be a fun idea to start a beer conversation here. We're going to make a beer every month here and encourage other brewers to make it as well. In the end, we're hoping we can share our opinions and experiences with the recipe and crowd-source some improvements. The recipes will be easy to make and we will gladly assist new home brewers in the production of these beers. They will all be 5.5 gallons in size. We find that after fermenting and racking a 5.5 gallon batch turns into a standard 5 gallon batch pretty quickly.
At the start of every month we will post the recipe in store, as well as on our website, Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We will also have a set price for the recipe that will include a discount of up to 25%!
Homestretch Pale Ale
Pale Ale – 5.5 Gal - OG 1.060 – FG 1.012 – ABV 6.1% - IBU 40 – SRM 13
This month’s beer is brought to you by Jeremy! In case you haven’t met Jeremy, he’s the new guy! Jere was a brewer at Wellington for years, and we’re excited to have him and his expertise here at KJ. Here’s what he had to say about his first beer with us:
It’s the dead of winter and we’ve been drowning our malaise in thick porters and stouts. There is still lots of winter left, and yet, we are also embarking on the last leg of this winter journey. This beer is a homage to both heavy winter beers, and lighter spring brews. It features a malt heavy profile that is bolstered by a sweet bitterness imparted by the Sabro hops and the Voss Kveik yeast.
The first glass tastes sessionable, but don’t be fooled. This Pale Ale packs a 6.1 ABV. Enough to warm your bones through the rest of the winter. We’re almost there. This is the Homestretch.
Ingredients
Grains
- Maris Otter x 6.5lbs
- Canadian 2-Row x 2.0lbs
- Red X x 2.5lbs
- Flaked Oats x 1.0lbs
- Carafa 1 x 0.2lbs
- Acidulated Malt x .2lbs
Hops
- Cascade (5.8% A.A.) - 1 oz @ 20 min
- Cascade (5.8% A.A.) - 1oz @ 15 min
- Sabro (15.6 A.A.) - 1oz @ 0 min
Yeast
- Voss Kveik (Lallemand)
Extras (Must be purchased separately)
- Gypsum (3/4 tsp at mashing)
- Irish Moss (1 tsp for last 15 minutes of boil)
- Dry Malt Extract (0.4 cup for priming at bottling)
Important Tips on Brewing
- Be extra cautious when it comes to cleaning! Once you have stopped boiling your wort everything that gets in contact with the beer MUST be sanitary.
- The temperature of your mash is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. Not being in the 150-155f range can drastically affect your beer. Make sure you correct the temperature ASAP once all of the grain has been added to the mash.
- Always let your beer ferment for 10 days! Do not disturb it, do not open the lid. It is absolutely natural for the airlock to stop bubbling after a few days, it is still fermenting though.
- Oxidization: Airspace is always something to consider. When undergoing primary fermentation airspace is needed so that the beer can bubble up and ferment vigoursley without leaking out of the container. The fermentation creates a layer of CO2 that remains in the pail due to the airlock. Once primary fermentation is over and the lid has been opened, the layer of CO2 dissipates and oxygen replaces it. At this point airspace can ruin your beer. When racking into carboys make sure they are filled to the top, or you blast CO2 inside to prevent oxidization. Ask us for details on this!
- Before bottling, make sure you use a priming calculator (many can be found online) to verify the amount of sugar that needs to be added.
- What's the deal with the acidulated malt? If you're using Guelph water, or any tap water from Ontario it is almost always very hard water. Hard water has a high pH, in order to get the pH down to the proper level for brewing we recommend adding 2.5-3% acidulated malt to your beer. It depends on the style a bit, but this is a good rule of thumb. Get in touch with us if you'd like a more in-depth explainer of pH and water adjustment!
- What's the deal with the gypsum? Like acid malt, this relates to Guelph water. Our water is a little low in sulfates, higher sulfates in the water will make the hops be more aromatic and will accentuate the bitterness in a pleasing way. We add a little bit of gypsum to bring the sulfate content up.
Instructions
Mashing -> converting the grain into a fermentable liquid.
- Bring 6 gallons of water in your brew pot to 155°F. This is our strike temperature. Turn off the heat to the pot.
- Add ¾ tsp of gypsum to the mash water, stir it in. Gypsum helps accentuate hop aroma and flavour.
- Wrap the muslin/nylon bag around the brew pot and slowly pour all the milled grains into the bag. Stir them in while adding to prevent clumps. The addition of grain should drop the temperature down to 150-155°F.
- We want to mash the grain at 154°F for 60 minutes. It is very important to hold the temperature at 154°F. If the temperature rises above 155°F it hurts the fermentation, or if it dips below 149°F it can lead to a thinner tasting beer.
- The first 15-30 minutes are essential for the success of your brew. The temperature HAS TO BE IN THE RANGE OF 150-155°F. Sometimes adding the grain to the strike water does not lower the temperature enough, in this case add a little bit of cold water to bring the temperature down. Cover the pot with your lid and let it sit.
- Most brew pots will be able to maintain 154°F without adding heat for 20 minutes, we recommend checking the temperature every 15 minutes, and if it drops add more heat to bring it up. We recommend opening the lid and using a thermometer in the liquid.
- After 60 minutes, bring the temperature of the mashing grain up to 170°F and hold for 10 minutes. This is our mash out.
- Time to remove the grain. Lift the bag full of grain out of the brew pot. Let the liquid in the bag dribble into your wort. Once that is done, put the bag inside of a brewing pail, or another empty pot. There will be about 4 gallons of wort in the brewpot, we need to get it to 6 gallons before we can begin the next stage.
- Run warm water through the grains in the bag, aim for 170°f – let it run through the grains and add to the brewpot. Add until you reach 6 gallons.
- PSA: It is natural to think that the grains need to be squeezed to get all of the liquid out of them, DO NOT DO THIS. Aggressively squeezing the grains will lead to tannin extraction and a doughy taste in your beer. Lightly pressing the bag is fine, but do not try to squeeze every last drop out.
Boiling -> Hop addition time
- Bring 6 gallons of your wort to a rolling boil, and let it boil for 5 minutes, this is called the hot break.
- Add 1.5 ounces of Cascade, and set a timer for 60 minutes, keep the wort boiling (212°f) and uncovered.
- With 30 minutes left in the timer, add 1oz of Cascade hops.
- With 15 minutes left in the timer add the Irish Moss, and if you’re using a wort chiller add that too.
- When your timer goes off, add 1 ounce of Sabro hops, then turn off the heat, and proceed to the cooling stage.
- Now it’s time to cool the beer down to 80°f (25-30°c) as quickly as possible.
- We love using a wort chiller for this, it can get the beer down to temperature in 20-30 minutes. Otherwise, you can immerse the brew pot in an ice bath or wait it out. The longer it takes, the greater the risk of infection
- Typically, we recommend cooling the wort to 25°C or lower, but with Voss Kveik, it likes a warmer wort and a warmer fermentation temperature. Chill the wort down to 30°C then transfer it into the fermenter.
Fermentation -> Turning the wort into beer
- After the boil is done it is time to be extra careful in regard to sanitation. We recommend using a no-rinse sanitizer called Starsan. Mix ¼ tsp of it with water in a 500ml spray bottle. Before we touch any part of the beer we spray it with Starsan.
- Transfer the cooled wort into your fermenting pail or carboy. Run it though a strainer to catch any hop or grain residue.
- It is also an important time to take a hydrometer reading. It should be around 1.060 give or take a few points.
- Your choice of fermentation vessel is important. During primary fermentation, it will bubble up quite a bit, you want to be sure there is airspace for it to work away. Otherwise the pressure of it will push out the airlock.
- Once the beer is in the fermenter, pour in the entire package of Voss Kveik Yeast.
- Put the bung and airlock in the hole (make sure there is water filled up to the line in the airlock). If using a pail, make sure the lid is sealed tight. Put the pail in a WARM room that is at least 22°C. This yeast likes temps in the 25-40°C range!
- Voss Kveik yeast moves quick, it is very likely the beer will start fermenting vigorously in the first 12 hours and be practically finished bubbling within 2 days. Let the beer sit at least 8 days before moving to bottling. We recommend 10 days, but if you are impatient, 8 will do .
- Once the 10 (or 8 if you’re eager) days have passed, take a hydrometer reading. It should be in the range of 1.010-1.016.
- Lately, we have been of the opinion that secondary is an unnecessary step. Unless you are kegging, we recommend proceeding to the bottling stage. Clarification can occur in the bottle rather than in a carboy, and the risk of oxidization is greatly reduced.
Bottling -> We’re getting close to Beer Time now.
- Rack the now fermented beer into a bucket. Because there are hops in the fermenter, we recommend attaching a muslin/nylon bag to the output of the siphon. This will catch any hop residue that makes it into the siphon.
- At the same time, mix the priming sugar with 300ml of boiling water and add to the beer. Stir it in VERY gently.
- Make sure to check out a priming calculator to verify the correct amount of sugar. Too much sugar and your beer will end up foamy, or even start blowing the caps off! Too little and the beer won’t be fully carbonated.
- Rack the beer into your bottles or growlers. Then, let them sit for 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Chill and enjoy!